FastenMaster FMTLOK04-12 TimberLOK Heavy-Duty Wood Screw, 4 Inches, 12-Count,Black

After watching a couple youtube videos, I took a 42' seamless aluminum gutter off the back of my house by myself. I built a few wooden brackets to hold it in place while I pulled out all the gutter spikes, and then carefully lifted it off the brackets at one end at a time until I had it on the ground, undamaged.That has nothing to do with these screws. I just wanted to brag about it.Then, I put the whole thing back up, again by myself, and used these screws instead of the old spikes I took out. They worked great.

But at the price per unit, I expect these all to be straight. Mine package came with 11 good ones and one completely bent one. I tried to straighten in vice and 10 other ways but no dice, this thing must have been forged this way. These are supposed to be top quality, so that was a disappointment. My plans called for an exact number of screws and I had to improvise and compromise for the last one.

These are great. I used these short ones for hinges mostly, but for the longer ones on the roof, some I needed to recess the head. That was not fun until I realized the trick - use a square bottom bit (auger or forstner on hardwood) then countersink. A large enough countersink to drive the head recessed means you can't match the head since there is a flat bit above the angle. That compression maybe not important for soft-wood rough construction, but if you are attaching hardwood for appearance it becomes an issue).

I used these before re-staining my deck to make some light repairs. Typically where a 4X4 was attached like the handrails. They are pricey for what they are, but come with the drive bit and as described, went in like a champ without pre-drilling.

Used them to install a pull up bar. I used the bar few times already and so dar it did not move an inch. Provided bit is a nice touch if you do not own one. Overall they are very grippy and i recommend them.

I was working with Australian Redgum hardwood sleepers, which like Australian ironbark, is really HARD!Due to this, I pre-drilled the sleeper to be joined, and left the "join-to" sleeper for the timberlok to cut through. It was just as well I think.1st attempt was with my 18V impact driver, which didn't have enough torque to turn the timberlok.2nd, I then went to my two speed hammer drill on low gear. This drill has a torque limiting function to save you snapping your wrist if a bit grabs suddenly. The hammer drill did the job, but the torque limiter rattled away making the exercise a bit cumbersome.3rd, I then reverted to my 3 speed 18V Makita drill / driver on low speed and in drill mode. This was the best tool for the job. The low 300rpm speed gave the greatest torque and drove the timberlok easily through the initial pilot hole and then - with a little more resistance - into the anchoring sleeper.I really expected the timberloks to snap, given their length and the torque being applied, but they just kept driving into the hard seasoned timber.These screws were much, much better than trying to use large diameter coach / lag screws.

"No pre-drilling" is a real misnomer. I finally managed to get one in after almost knocking myself off the ladder. The second one wouldn't even start. So, it's back to drilling a pilot hole, which is not big deal, but not having to drill a pilot hole is one of the major reasons I purchased this product.

These are awesome for landscape timbers! I have bought them at Lowe’s but amazon was actually cheaper and delivered!