ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer, Smart Dimmer Switch for Z-Wave Home Automation, Z-Wave Dimmer Switch with Smart Meter Energy Monitor, Neutral Wire Required, Compatible with Alexa, ZW500DM-PLUS, 2-Pack

The device did "include" in my Z-Wave network .. with all the attendant Z-Wave hassles.But I had to jump through hoops to get it to work on my ISY994i (v5.30) It wouldn't trigger a program to run when I turned it on (If device switched on) Search "Z-Wave Switch not triggering program" to see my trials, tribulations and solution thread.Also, there are no parameters that can be set. Not that it would have to have any, but one might think there would be in an effort to future-proof it.Read the 1 star reviews, they indicate that the quality control is poor. I don't trust 5 star comments on electronic devices because there is a lot of astroturfing on Chinese products.

Easy install (just like a std switch, but add a neutral). Shows power consumption in real time via my Z-wave hub (Ezlo plus). Does not easily slide between say 10% and 100% in my hub, this could be the hub. at 100% brightness the LEDs have installed flicker, you must drop to 95% or less. When used as a manual switch on the wall it is a bit laggy. I have only had it a week, its OK, but not quite what I was hoping for as a dimmer.Update: Running these for two months now, moved to a new hub, returned the Ezlo (stay away). Still have the annoying light flicker at 100% or less than 25% on the new Hubitat Elevation (C7) hub. Also the switches seem to wait about 2 seconds to start fading out when you press the manual off button, instant off with hub command. Also sometimes when you press the on or off button if you just tap it as you go by, it does not get the on or off signal (like the contacts inside the switch did not quite close -- minor annoyance, but always nagging at you (I do not need to relearn how to turn on a switch at any age). I have installed several FEIT brand WIFI dimmers (trying to stay away from WIFI stuff). They work great, no flicker at all, but I really do not want a lot on WIFI -- Google home has lousy rule capability, hubs are MUCH better about event based actions)

I bought a pair of these Z-Wave switch with power meter and installed them in February. I use the switch about twice a day - turn it on in the evening (mostly use the button) and turn it off after a few hours (mostly from my smartphone). Last week, after 6 months of use, one of them stopped responding to the button. Now I have to turn on my light through my smartphone or computer, even when I stand next to the switch, really awkward.EDIT: Today is October 19, 2019, 9 month after I placed my order, or 8 month after I installed them, both switch stopped working. They can still be controlled through Z-Wave, but not the mechanical rocker. I will replace them with major brands like GE or Honeywell, they don't have power meters but I hope they would last longer.EDIT 2: After contacted their customer service, I was able to revived the rockers by resetting the breaker (from the house breaker panel).

Installed in a 12 device z-wave network using an alarm system controller. The "tap 3 times" to program/connect was a bit challenging and had to be executed several times to get it to work (in spite of being less than 6 feet from the controller). Once connected - they control and dim lights using the controller very well. The manual control is oddly problematic and takes longer to respond than form the controller. Since I use the controller - they work fine. Since my wife uses them manually - she is not impressed and is in fact dissatisfied.

I had to troubleshoot why this product did not function via the rocker panel after a couple of weeks. Tech Support was very responsive and did not hesitate to offer a replacement after a brief troubleshooting session.

Pros:- price is competitive compared to other z-wave switches- they work reliably- being able to measure energy and power is niceCons:- Power readings default to sending at 0.1W. This causes an abundance of messages on the z-wave network, and my poor hub is overwhelmed.- The power readings are configurable, but I haven't been able to configure it with the hubs I have: an Aeotec Z-stick + open-zwave using either Home Assistant or the open-zwave control panel, OR the SmartThings Hub.- I haven't figured out a reliable way to add/remove the switch from the z-wave hub. It is very finicky compared to other ones (eg, Homeseer). I had to do this several times to try different hubs to address the previous points, and I wasted hours in the process.- The feel and look of the switch feels cheaper than alternative z-wave switches (eg, Homeseer).

Finally an in wall Dimmer switch with built in energy monitoring. These work good for dimming, but could be better. These dim by pressing and holding on the paddle, which can cause issues when it gets dimmed down to the point of being off. Then you can press the on button and the light does not come on, which can be fixed by holding the top of the rocker until it comes on. I know it is being picky and every dimmer that dims with the main rocker is this way. Being an electrician I do get to install a lot of different dimmers and have found this type of dimmer to be a problem for some people. It does work good for myself and I can still give it 5 stars even though I think a separate small rocker along the side is a better option.

I ordered these switches a couple years ago when they were on sale and I was replacing a bunch of switches and outlets in my house, but only got around to installing one of them now. After installing the switch, I found that the connected light would work properly when the switch was 'on', but when the switch was in the 'off' mode, the light would flash/flicker rather than shutting off fully. I was it able to get the light to shut off fully by turning on the fan (overhead fan/light combo) and thereby applying an additional load to the switch. I measured between the 'load' terminal on the switch and 'ground' and found that the switch was leaking 1V when the fan was switched on and about 4-5V when only the light was switched on (using the pull string switches). I'm long past the return window so I guess I'm SOL, but hopefully this saves someone else a headache.